| At the far eastern edge of Andalucia is the only | | | | San Jose is the main town situated on the coast |
| official desert area in Europe. During the day, in | | | | and probably the best base from which to |
| summer, the temperature is blistering, at night it | | | | explore the Cabo de Gata. It is a pretty fishing |
| drops dramatically and the stars shine with a | | | | village with a small marina and a good beach. |
| brilliance not seen on the light polluted Costas. | | | | Overlooking the marina and beach there are a |
| Here the cactus and succulents dominate the | | | | few restaurants. The main part of town is |
| landscape and lizards, snakes and nocturnal | | | | basically one main street and a square with more |
| mammals are more at home than humans. There | | | | restaurants and a few shops. There are a couple |
| is no easily obtainable water so, if you venture | | | | of decent hotels. |
| out on the kilometres of track, you take your | | | | The coast itself consists of numerous coves |
| own. The southern part of the desert, where it | | | | separated by high cliffs, very similar to Cornwall. |
| meets the sea, is called the Cabo de Gata. This | | | | Some can only be reached on foot or by boat. |
| sun baked, wind eroded, volcanic area is now a | | | | The water tends to be a few degrees warmer |
| marine and land nature reserve and, for those | | | | than on the Costa del Sol and in most places is |
| who enjoy something different, it is a fascinating | | | | crystal clear, ideal for snorkelling around the |
| place. | | | | inshore reefs. |
| The mineral reserves in the area have been | | | | Inland the volcanic cones, dry water courses, |
| exploited in a small way since prehistoric times. | | | | dunes and plains of rock, sand and grit provide a |
| There are a number of abandoned mines from | | | | challenging environment for plants, animals and |
| which lead, gold, silver and amethyst have been | | | | humans. Here, at certain times of the year, the |
| extracted. The high mineral content of the rocks | | | | agave is king. All the plants have adapted to the |
| can be seen on exposed faces in the ramblas | | | | harsh environment and many, like the Cabo de |
| (dry river valleys) and appear as a banding of | | | | Gata pink and Cabo saffron are unique to the |
| various colours, reds, oranges, yellows and greys. | | | | area. You will only see these flowers after the |
| Later the Moors realised the potential of the rich | | | | rare occurrence of rain. At other times low |
| volcanic earth and used ingenious methods to | | | | shrubs, cacti and succulents provide sparse ground |
| irrigate parts of it. There are a few remains of | | | | cover. The volcanic hills have been eroded by the |
| their waterworks including wind powered water | | | | action of the wind and stand proud of the plains |
| pumps, but the outstanding working example is at | | | | harshly outlined against the sky. |
| a small village called El Pozo de los Frailes. When | | | | The overall impression of khaki and browns from |
| the Arabs departed, peace descended on this | | | | one horizon to the other beneath a brilliant blue |
| area for over 500 years. The difficulties of | | | | sky is only relieved occasionally by the green of a |
| communication allowed history and development | | | | hardy plant, solitary flowers after a little rain or by |
| to bypass the small communities who just carried | | | | bands of colour in the rocks. It is a barren yet |
| on, mainly ignoring, and ignored by, the rest of | | | | strangely beautiful landscape that you will either |
| the world. A feeling of timelessness envelops | | | | be drawn back to or that will intimidate you by its |
| anybody who ventures here. | | | | vastness. |